9 - Adventures in the Dordogne
Discover the Dordogne's Best Kept Secrets.
Marie's Puymaurin Villa
The first time I visited the South of France I remember the seemingly endless hours of google maps directions concluding with a cheery 'you have arrived at your destination' at our villa in Puymaurin, possibly the smallest town I have ever visited. Consisting of just 6 properties (excluding the uninhabitable barn) this was possibly the warmest welcome to the region you could've asked for after the journey. With the most beautiful garden dotted with beaming flowers and an enticing outside pool, I would certainly recommend Marie's spacious 8 person villa to anyone planning a group getaway.
Bourdeilles
It was during my stay in Puymaurin that I first visited Bourdeilles, a Dordogne village founded in the 10th century. The main attraction of Bourdeilles is their historic chateau, which tourists can pay to explore, including access to the most stunning viewpoint at the top of one of the Chateau's towers, if you are willing to climb the 125 steps to reach the top. If you aren't keen on purchasing a ticket, there is still plenty of stunning views of the outside of the Chateaus and of the river Dronne, which threads through the town and under picturesque bridges, gleaming a perfect shade of turquoise. At the time of my visit, the town offered a variety of souvenir shops, cafes, a bakery and an art gallery hosted by a local artist, Mado Pourtin-Mousnier, whose artwork now hangs on my bedroom wall.
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| The Bourdeilles Chateau and grounds. |
Canoeing
For anyone happy to risk getting wet, you definitely need to try Canoeing in the South of France. In 2018 my party of 8 used Brantome Canoes and in 2019 the canoes in Aubeterre. Be warned, the weirs you may encounter at Brantome Canoes may look harmless but managed to send my parents and my dog for a swim in 2018 and I doubt they were the first.
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| The town of Brantome. |
La Roque Saint-Christophe
One of the most popular tourist attractions in the South of France is La Roque Saint-Christophe, an attraction set in a dramatic cliff face 80m tall and 1km wide in the heart of the Dordogne. The attraction is an ode to the prehistoric and middle ages communities which once settled in caves and lodgings within the cliff face. Visiting this attraction gains you access to the secret paths and staircases set within the cliff and pre-historic exhibits.
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| Secret caves and staircases at La Roque Saint-Christophe. |
Craig and Becky's Chez Desier Villa
Craig and Becky are the owners of the magical Villa which we stayed in during the summer of 2019 with the same party of 8. The villa is situated in Chez Desier, a town equal in crowdedness to Puaymaurin. The remoteness makes for a peaceful stay, away from any hustle and bustle. Every time you stepped outside you were met with the rustle, chirping and humming of the docile wildlife inhabiting the extensive fields and farmland in the surrounding region. If you listened closely enough, you might even hear the padded footsteps of two charismatic Husky dogs. The villa boasts an outside swimming pool, a games room, table tennis table and BBQ, which provided hours of entertainment during my parties visit.
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| Craig and Becky's Villa in Chez Desier. |
Aubeterre
I discovered Aubeterre in 2018 and it didn't take long for me to name it my favorite town in the South of France. The little town has so much character and a whole host of activities to offer. The town has a brilliant selection of local restaurants, most localized in the main square, all complete with outside seating, perfect for warm summertime evenings. Once a year the town hosts a so-called 'night market' where tourists and locals alike can enjoy local market stalls, live music, food, and alcohol. It is also home to the Monolithic Church of Saint-Jean of Aubeterre, an underground church built in the 12th century.
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| The Night Market in Aubetterre. |
Le Cabanon Pizzeria-Saladerie
For the best pizzas in the Dordogne, you simply must try a meal at Le Cabanon. This Pizzeria is unique as the seating and kitchen alike are completely outside and it operates only during the summer months. It is situated along the riverbank and spoils customers for choice with there selection of pizzas and salads. They also offer cocktail and dessert specials which are always crowd-pleasers. Of all the places I have eaten in the Dordogne, this has to be my favourite.
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| A salad from Le Cabanon Pizzeria-Saladerie. |
Parc Des Doublorigenes
The stand out attraction from my travels in South of France is the truly one of a kind Parc Des Doublorigenes. Hidden in an ancient orchard on the edge of the forest of Double is the attraction currently owned and run by the french couple Dominique and Sylvie Perez. They welcome visitors into their Orchard to experience a few hours of old school entertainment and relaxation. There is so much hidden here, from the animals to hammocks in quiet corners, sculptures and a maze. The rustic wooden games dotted around the orchard, which you will never have heard of, provide fun for all ages and Sylvie and Dominique were happy to show us the ropes and then beat us at a game or two.
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